Hello everyone!
How are we all today? Sorry I couldn’t update on you sooner but I have been a bit busy with school, it’s just test after test really. I’m thinking that most of you all are on holidays and are finished with exams and all. As always this will be a long email so grab a coffee or something, and make sure you have some time before reading this.
Well today’s email will be about my experiences in Korea, a real interesting country with a unique mixture of Chinese and Japanese heritage. In Japan, it’s uniqueness lies in harmony, it has this harmony between modern, state of the art technology and metropolitan cities and the spiritual surroundings of nature. China’s uniqueness lies within it’s deep history, a civilization that perhaps was one of the most advanced during it’s time. Korea, maybe because of the occupation from both of these countries, gathers both of these cultures to create it’s own identity.
The first day of May, two of my American friends (Dan and Sasha) headed out of our dorms at 6am in the mourning to catch a 2hr bus ride to Fukuoka. From Fukuoka, we all rode the ferry to Busan, the second largest city in South Korea. The three hour ferry ride was all too bad, didn’t get sea sick at all really, felt more like a train ride once it got going. We got this sweet package from the Beetle (the name of the ferry) website where we get a round trip ferry ticket from Fukuoka to Busan, a KR (Korean railways) pass that allows us to use any trains, except subway trains, in South Korea and also a pass in which we can use the KTX (the Korean version of the bullet train) unlimited times between Busan to Seoul. All of this was only for about $310, excluding taxes. Not bad for travelling to a foreign country. It was kind of weird when I was packing for my trip because it didn’t feel like I was going to another country, felt like I was going to another place within Japan, had to remind myself not to forget my passport.
Once we arrived in Busan, we ate our first Korean meal, which was at a buffet place downtown, and then headed to our hostel. Korean food is the best for a tight wallet, the buffet place was about only AU$5, actually come to think about it, most of the food we ate was no more than AU $10. After finding our hostel, we all decided to head to a temple recommended by the owner of the hostel called Haedong Temple. Haedong temple is located north from the downtown area and is a Buddhist temple that is placed on the rocky shores next to the sea. During our stay in Korea, temples were getting ready for Buddha’s birthday, which is on the 8th day of the 4th month on the lunar calendar. In Haedong temple there was these stairs that led to a dark underground room where people meditate to the sounds of dripping water bouncing from wall to wall and the sound of rushing civilization outside the meditating room. It was very pleasant to just sit with your eyes shut and take a few minutes from life. Once done with Haedong temple, we all took a $2 taxi ride to Haeundae Beach. Supposedly the best beach in South Korea, Haeundae holds a nice relaxing scenery where you can sit on the sand and watch the sun shut its eyes. Similar to the scenery you get at St Kilda beach or Bondi. In Haeundae beach, we went to find a hot spring place we heard about that has a strawberry milk hot spring. Yeah weirdly interesting eh? Unfortunately it turned out to be the wrong spa house however we did find it the next day, only to find a cherry champagne bath, salt bath and jasmine tea bath, but no strawberry milk.
Beomusa temple was the main agenda for our second day in Busan, before leaving Busan for Seoul. Beomusa is an extremely old temple built around 600-700AD, that is nicely hidden in the mountain forest. It surrounding environment is all just green trees, with spiritualistic wind blowing into your face and whispering it’s magic. From the nearest station, we did a 30min hike up a mountain and on the way we always saw a pile of rocks stacked up. I asked my Korean friend, Ji Young, later what the meaning of the rocks were and she said that in natural or holy places, people stack rocks like a tower and pray to the gods. I found this very interesting because everywhere I went I would see these stacks of rocks piled up like a pagoda
After Beomusa, we decided to find the spa that was supposed to have a strawberry milk bath, called Hurshimchung. Once we finished with our fastination for this spa place, we finally headed to the station to board the Seoul train. Once arriving in Seoul, we found our hostel in Hyewah district of Seoul and chilled out in a bar, drinking soju (Korean rice wine) for the rest of the night.
My first full day in Seoul was spend by going on a tour to the DMZ. The DMZ tour is a very interesting tour that one should take when going to South Korea. The DMZ (The Demilitarization zone) is the boarder between North and South, it is like 4km wide and 250km long. The DMZ was a result of another pointless war between communist power and egotistical American fear during the 1950’s. Although it is very surreal with the amount of Southern soldiers around the area, and also the fact that you’re next to North Korea, gives this tour a certain cool factor to it.
We were picked up in the mourning by bus and brought to Imjingak Park, a peace park that is next to the DMZ. In this park it has the ‘Bridge of Freedom’, the place where both countries swapped hostage solders, and the memorials alter; a place where one who has family in the North would gather to during Thanksgiving. Apparently in North Korea, they have a similar memorial alter for their citizens.
Next was Dorasan station, which is located next to the boarder of the DMZ. This station is never used however a couple years back, the two countries decided to rebuild its connecting railways, symbolic for the road to unification. In this place I took a sweet picture of a sign that says ‘Pyongyang 205km, Seoul 56km’
The Dora Obervatory is an observation deck which allows you to get a view of North Korea When taking pictures of North Korea, the southern soldiers strictly ask you to take picture behind this yellow line away from the viewing deck. From the viewing deck, I saw an interesting site involving a tale of two cities, one on the north and the other on the south, holding up tall flag poles to symbolize the strength and power of their own nations. Naturally the North got the last laugh because their flag is taller than the South.
Finally was the 3rd Infiltration tunnel, this is a tunnel that was discovered during the 70’s that was dug by the North in order to launch a surprise attack on the South, or so they say, as the North insist that the South made the tunnel in order to set up North Korea. Reportedly, there were 20 tunnels dug by the North, only 4 of them were found. The tour guide said since it was 56km from Seoul, it could possibly move 10,000 soldiers in one hour. Pretty crazy for a surprise attack, sneaky north Koreans
After the DMZ tour, we did some sightseeing of some districts in Seoul, and then stayed the night at a spa. Now in Korea, as I may have mentioned earlier, they like spas and hot springs, they love it so much that they have 24 hour spas. In these places, there is the segregated spas and a huge common room for relaxing. After having a dip in the spa, it was in this common room that we slept in. It was a busy night so we only had a pillow and we had to sleep on a marble floor. Although I did grab loads of blankets to make my sleep somewhat more comfortable, an old Korean lady woke me up, said something I didn’t understand and just took the blankets. So yeah, I slept on a marble floor, didn’t really sleep, more like zoning out for a couple of hours.
After a rough night at the Spa place, we deicided our agenda for the day was to visit Buckingham Palace or the Forbidden city of Korea, Gyeoungbokgung. Gyeongbokgung Palace is the royal palace of the Seoul, where once upon a time Korean emperors would dine, wine and rule their country. It was interesting to see the different styles of Korean architecture, Koreans put a very heavy emphasis on colour, its evident in their traditional clothing, silk dresses with bright dazzling colour to reflect the beauty of nature. Although the palace was huge, I still believe that the forbidden city was much more bigger somehow, maybe it has something to do with the huge imposing security walls guarding the palace. Later that night we went to Jonggak district to check out the Latern festival. This is were I saw great scenes of traditional Korean culture, with it’s colourful traditional clothing, the thumping sounds of the traditional drums and the gentle yet stylized dances.
After a night of festive culture, the last day in Seoul was to be spent with our Korean friend, Ji-young, who lived with us in the dormitory in Kumamoto. She showed us the market districts of Seoul before leaving the capital to go to her hometown of Daejeon. Daejeon city was the last place I would stay in before heading back home to Japan. It’s where my Korean friends live and only a 1hr KTX ride from Seoul. It’s not much of a big city, nothing much to really see, mainly doing my rounds of visiting old friends. We stayed with our friend Ji-young, and on the night of our arrival, we had a huge free feast full of Kalbi, Korean BBQ, and Kim Chi and all the delicious spicy cuisine that comes with Korean food. Ji youngs mother owns a small BBQ restaurant, so hence why it was free all we can eat.
I’ll take a minute to talk about Korean food, the main rule is that red pretty much means it’s spicy. Kim Chi is a must have when going to Korea, for those who don’t know what Kim Chi is, it’s cabbage mixed with spices that is fermented for either a day, a week or even years.
l Bolgogi is my favorite meal in Korea, its just beef with this beautifully tasting sweet sauce similar to Japanese teriyaki sauce.
l Renmen is very very chewy buckwheat noodles that are served cold, maybe with ice on the side even.
Last Korean dish that I know the name of is Bibimbap, a very simple dish that has rice with veggies, a fried egg and the red spicy sauce. To eat this, you first mash the hell out of all the ingredients in the bowl until all of its covered with the red sauce, and then eat. The most cheapest and simple of all Korean meals I must say.
For the liquor, the national alcohol is So-ju, a certain type of rice wine. Now I don’t really enjoy rice wine, frankly I think it taste like shit. However So-ju is very easy to drink, pretty much like drinking water, not really strong hitting at all, goes really well down the throat.
By the way, I did experience some weird food during my stay in Korea. I ate silkworm, and what’s the flavor like you may be asking, it taste like bugs! Like it was terrible, you look at it and that is the taste you get from it. I couldn’t believe people ate this, they sell them on the street vendors for Christ sakes! My Korean friend Lulu was eating then normal, she enjoys them actually occasionally saying ‘hmmm its delicious’. The texture was bugg-ish, it was lukewarm and just bad!
My next weird food was eating fish stomach, now as weird as that may sound, it wasn’t too bad of a deal, much better than the silkworms.
On my final full day in Korea, I spent the day with my Korea friends, Ji-young and Song-ei, to visit the magnificent Beopjusa temple. Beopjusa temple is about a 2hr bus ride from Daejeon city, and it holds the largest standing Buddha in all of East Asia. This is also the place where Bruce Lee’s unfinished movie ‘Game of Death’ was set in. The village of Beopjusa is a very small, quiet place filled with various temple and nature reserves. The people in the main part of town will flock out and try and lure you into their shops. In Beopjusa temple, besides the 33m bronze standing Buddha, the temple also holds a unique 5 storey pagoda and many halls that display statues of the Buddha and Buddhist art. After Beopjusa temple, we met with another Korean friend called Lulu, and enjoyed ourselves the Korean way, eating kim chi, stew pots and getting drunk of soju.
This, I must say, has to be one of the cheapest holidays I have ever been on! Korea is a very cheap place to visit, the average meal cost less than AU$7 and the people are friendly and nice. This was also the first time going to a country where I have no understanding in the national tongue. Each country I’ve visited I knew a decent portion of the language, however in Korea, very interesting to get by, especially when they say you look like a Korean native.
Well your eyes must be tired and aching after reading the crap I just wrote. When I’m in the zone of things, I just can’t stop, the words just flow. Anyways I’ll stop here and yeah, enjoy, take care and have a good one.
Brendan